Testing Moral Fibre
Listed under: One Voice
Published: Tuesday, July 01, 2008
Panorama's investigation into textile sweatshops may have shocked many, but what can retailers do to avoid ethically unsound stock? Textiles expert Phil Whitaker of Shirley Technologies argues why more fabrics should be 'Made in Green'
What is Made in Green all about?
It was started by the Spanish textile Institute ITEX which decided to roll it out across Europe. It brings together a whole package of testing – firstly each supplier has to have certification for the products to show that they don't contain anything harmful. There's a whole range of chemical nasties used in the textile industry, some of which are banned, so the first part of the process is establishing that the textile is safe.
The second part involves the manufacturing process itself – to achieve certification manufacturers have to show they have worked to minimise the environmental impact of the process, the emissions for example. The third part looks at social responsibility. Companies have to follow a recognised social responsibility programme so that the workers' rights are protected. By bringing all these strains together it's possible to research everything about the origins of the product which makes it easier to assess whether there are any problems.
Are these problems getting worse or required standards getting higher?
I think it's about awareness. Other countries in Europe, Germany for example, may be more aware of these sorts of issues; there tends to be more of a 'green lobby' in those countries. In the UK we've often been behind but I think people are coming round to considering these issues. However you've got to get over that barrier of cost. However you package it, people are attracted to low-cost items. You can of course get problems with higher-cost items but there's always a question with cheap items as to whether or not they've been produced and tested in a correct fashion.
Are more natural fibres safer than manmade?
You can have problems natural or synthetic. Cotton, for example, can have finishes containing metals because they are used in a few different die-stuffs. There could also be preservatives on the fabric. Other problems, though rare , with cottons is that they have traces of formaldehyde which is used as a finishing agent. Synthetics, particularly polyesters, might use allergenic dyes which can cause skin irritation.
What can retailers do to seek reassurance about their suppliers?
In terms of dangerous substances on textiles, buttons, zips and sequins, Oeko-Tex – which certifies the safety of products for Made in Green – has a list on its website of certified companies. Retailers can log on, look for a particular product from any given continent and the site will provide details of companies that are certified in that area.
For more information visit http://www.madeingreen.com and select the English language option
It was started by the Spanish textile Institute ITEX which decided to roll it out across Europe. It brings together a whole package of testing – firstly each supplier has to have certification for the products to show that they don't contain anything harmful. There's a whole range of chemical nasties used in the textile industry, some of which are banned, so the first part of the process is establishing that the textile is safe.
The second part involves the manufacturing process itself – to achieve certification manufacturers have to show they have worked to minimise the environmental impact of the process, the emissions for example. The third part looks at social responsibility. Companies have to follow a recognised social responsibility programme so that the workers' rights are protected. By bringing all these strains together it's possible to research everything about the origins of the product which makes it easier to assess whether there are any problems.
Are these problems getting worse or required standards getting higher?
I think it's about awareness. Other countries in Europe, Germany for example, may be more aware of these sorts of issues; there tends to be more of a 'green lobby' in those countries. In the UK we've often been behind but I think people are coming round to considering these issues. However you've got to get over that barrier of cost. However you package it, people are attracted to low-cost items. You can of course get problems with higher-cost items but there's always a question with cheap items as to whether or not they've been produced and tested in a correct fashion.
Are more natural fibres safer than manmade?
You can have problems natural or synthetic. Cotton, for example, can have finishes containing metals because they are used in a few different die-stuffs. There could also be preservatives on the fabric. Other problems, though rare , with cottons is that they have traces of formaldehyde which is used as a finishing agent. Synthetics, particularly polyesters, might use allergenic dyes which can cause skin irritation.
What can retailers do to seek reassurance about their suppliers?
In terms of dangerous substances on textiles, buttons, zips and sequins, Oeko-Tex – which certifies the safety of products for Made in Green – has a list on its website of certified companies. Retailers can log on, look for a particular product from any given continent and the site will provide details of companies that are certified in that area.
For more information visit http://www.madeingreen.com and select the English language option
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